This was a part of our recent travels. Our article on the “new” U.S. Civil Rights Trail is in the current issue of Canadian RVing magazine, a great publication we’ve started writing for on a regular basis. Really enjoying working with this fine people in the publishing world.
Read it here: U.S. Civil Rights Trail
Sometimes that “what should I write about?” falls right into your lap.
While travelling, we got a heads up through a work email that January 15 (Martin Luther King Jr. Day) was to be the launch of the brand new United States Civil Rights Trail. Took us about five seconds to make a decision, tap the new coordinates into our GPS and follow the two-hour detour to Greensboro, North Carolina.
Greensboro was home to the first student lunch counter sit-ins, an action that (according to MLK) gave the Civil Rights movement “a much needed shot in the arm.” That very first lunch counter sit in was held on February 1, 1960 by four young students from A&T University (Jesse Jackson’s alma mater). The stop on the new Civil Rights Trail is at the original F.W. Woolworth’s building, the site of the lunch counter sit-in. Now it is the home of the International Civil Rights Center & Museum. The museum is a worthwhile stop on its own, but the highlight is definitely the completely restored lunch counter. It’s a sombre, but inspiring sight.
Craving some ocean waves, we drove southeast to our first week of camping at Huntington Beach State Park, about 20 miles south of Myrtle Beach. Great park (surprisingly, about 80% full), nice long stretch of beach, wonderful marshland boardwalks. We did detour into MB for an excellent lunch at Croissant’s Bistro & Bakery (shrimp and grits, chicken and waffles, with a shared slice of key lime pie).
It turned out to be almost a full week of catching up on writing assignments at the lovely Waccamaw Neck Public Library. Can’t end this update without a thank you to Luke from Georgetown Auto Glass whose mobile service came and quickly stopped two windshield chips. Thanks Luke!
If ever there was a pretty Southern town, it has to be Natchez, Mississippi. So, we parked ourselves there for three days, worked in the library, walked the streets and stopped in for coffee often at the excellent Steampunk Coffee Roasters. Next door is the historic blues club the historic blues club named Smoot’s Grocery. Smoot’s has received a top-to-bottom renovation and is a beautiful space for parties, get-togethers or live music. Well worth checking out if you find yourself in Natchez.
Our schedule included a “break week” when we were taking some down time on the Mississippi Gulf Cost, catching up on blues-related reading, working on the book structure and starting some chapter work. All accomplished while we stayed at Gulf Islands National Seashore near the pretty town of Ocean Springs. While there we crossed paths with a get together of about two-dozen Roadtreks and we were quickly welcomed into the fold. Thanks y’all! Looking forward to the next time.
Back to work and starting the drive northward. Our first stop was in historic Meridian (the home of The Father of Country Music, Jimmy Rogers) where we had a fascinating hour interviewing Hartley Peavey, the founder of Peavey Electronics. As a teenager he started building amps at his parents place and he is now head of a worldwide corporation producing quality musical sound systems and instruments.
On to the small town of West Point, considered the home of Howlin’ Wolf. There’s a blues marker, a small but very good museum and a very cool downtown mural.
Just a bit further into the northeast corner of Mississippi – we stopped at Tupelo. Tupelo is the hometown of Elvis Presley. He was born there and lived in East Tupelo with his parents until he was 13 years old and they moved to Memphis. They’ve done a beautiful job at the Elvis Birthplace Museum, the self-guided driving tour, at Johnnie’s Drive-In (where they have preserved an Elvis booth where he’d hang out with friends and order an RC cola and burger) and at the Tupelo Hardware, the spot his mother bought him his first guitar. Probably the best $7.75 she ever spent!
There were a couple of typical small Western towns we wanted to explore on the way to Yellowstone National Park – Sheridan and Cody, both in Wyoming.
We stayed a couple of nights in the super tidy Peter D’s RV Park: walking distance from downtown Sheridan, very clean showers and laundry, Wi-Fi included (although the signal was slow when the park filled up in the evening) and very, very dog friendly. Pete met us with a couple of dog treats for Rigby and then showed us the four-acre, fenced off-leash dog yard. This was great – after being cooped up in the van with us, Rigby really needed to stretch her paws.
What we liked most about downtown Sheridan is the authentic Western town feel. No fancy airs, a beautifully restored, historic downtown main street, small independent shops and all set against a backdrop of the stunning Bighorn Mountains.
This region is the setting of the Longmire book and TV series (Netflix) – author Craig Johnson is a local fellow who writes in details about the landscape and the people here.
Sheridan has long been a railway town – the tracks run a few blocks above main street – it was a nice stop to take a break and get settled into the Western mindset. Here were the highlights of our stay:
Once we tore ourselves away from Sheridan, we went west along Highway 14 into the Bighorn National Forest and up and over the Bighorn Range on the Wyoming Scenic Byway. There was a dusting of snow on the trees at the 8,300-ft pass and we slowed down for a herd of cattle and wranglers making their way along the roadway. Outside temperature up top was just above zero Celsius. Back in Ontario they were sweating through an unusual September heatwave!
What an amazing drive! One scenic vista after another and barely passed another vehicle the whole way (cattle yes, cars not so much). After the mountains and at the edge of the Bighorn Basin we passed through Shell: population 83 and home of two establishments, a campground and the Shell Beer-Café (guess they have to cover all the bases).
We arrived in Cody and were immediately taken with the main street – again, great, authentic architecture. Cody has a beautiful location, a rodeo grounds and lots to explore in town. We only had time to spend a few hours at the world-class Buffalo Bill Center of the West (a Smithsonian affiliate museum). It is huge – divided into five smaller museum galleries from natural history to the Plains Indians to firearms.
The museum aims to immerse visitors into the story of the real American West. William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody believed that by encountering authentic western things, people would come to understand and appreciate the West. He started as a scout for the U.S. Army but is best known for his Buffalo Bill Wild West Shows. Lots of archives on display like a cancelled Wells Fargo envelope, Pony Express saddles, telegraph equipment, etc.
The part we liked the best was the natural history (the Draper Natural History Museum) on the sights, smells and sounds of the Greater Yellowstone region. It was very hands-on and touched all the senses. Howling wolves, bubbling hot springs, raging forest fires. Could have spent a whole day just in this section.
It was a 90-minute drive to the east gates of Yellowstone National Park and another hour from there to our first night’s campground. So, more of Cody will have to be on the “next time” list. The drive east out of town is stunning – the beautiful drive up and over the Absaroca Range (a part of the Central Rocky Mountain Chain). We passed beautiful riverside campgrounds that are on our list for another time. We could happily be based in Cody for a few days to explore the town and the hiking/driving opportunities in the nearby mountains.
On to Yellowstone . . .
What does an automobile assembly line have in common with Motown music? It turns out, more than the name. And we found out exactly what at the Hitsville U.S.A. Motown Museum in downtown Detroit.
The house that was home to Motown Records is now dedicated to telling the story of how founder Berry Gordy Jr. was influenced by a short stint working on the assembly line at the Ford Motor Company. He hated the boring nature of the work, but the rhythm and tempo of automobile production inspired him to write tunes in his head to the beat of the assembly line.
Tired of the repetition of the assembly line, young Berry quit and went into writing music. On the day he received a royalty cheque for a mere $3.19, he got a piece of advice from Smokey Robinson: “If $3.19 is all you’re going to get, you may as well go into business for yourself.” Berry agreed and the rest is music history.
First, he thought of how a bare metal frame would come rolling down the assembly line and then come out the other end a brand new car. He decided to take the same approach with the music he wrote. He wanted to create a place for a young kid off the street to walk in one door unknown and out the next door a star.
Berry developed a training process with four coaches help train young artists: a music arranger who taught four-part harmony; one who taught social graces; one for a smooth and competent performance; and finally one who taught choreography and dance moves.
Then, by creating more than 30 record labels, Berry was able to get his songs played on radio. On the early albums there was a variety of artists on one album.
Hitsville was open 24 hours a day, seven days a week so that any artist who felt inspired by a great idea could get to work right away. It was a fun and creative work environment, but first it was a business.
Highlight of the hour-long tour for Craig was definitely stepping into the Snake Pit – Studio A – that got its nickname from the microphones hanging from the ceiling. Any Motown song that was recorded from 1959 to 1972 was recorded in this space. Just like the family apartment and the lobby, Studio A has been left in its original condition.
This is where the magic happened. At the time, the whole band and singers squeezed into what was a renovated garage. The instruments and control room equipment are all original – Earl Van Dyke’s Hammond B3 organ, an 1877 Steinway grand piano that was played by Marvin Gaye and Stevie Wonder (the insides were restored as a gift from Paul McCartney; Berry wanted the exterior to stay in its original state), a set of vibes and drum set.
The Snake Pit is the setting in the film, Standing in the Shadows of Motown. At its heart are The Funk Brothers, a group of Detroit jazz musicians who were Motown’s house band.
Every Friday in Studio A, Berry held a Quality Control meeting where various artists spoke in front of the staff, musicians and other artists to make a case for which record should be released next. After listening to the song, the group would vote.
Berry would stand and ask just one question: If you were hungry and down to your last dollar, would you buy this record or would you buy a chili dog? He knew if the record was chosen over the chili dogs then this record was really good. If the hot dog was chosen over the record, the record would not be released.
Wow … that was fun!
This afternoon I got to sit in the studio and talk about my favourite Canadian destinations on The Candy Palmater Show on CBC Radio.
It was tough to whittle the list down (I could have gone on – and on – for an hour rather than the 12 minute time slot I had).
You can find the link here to the CBC spot and the audio: http://www.cbc.ca/radio/candy/the-candy-palmater-show-for-june-30-2016-1.3659588/workin-for-the-weekend-getaway-travel-writer-shares-her-favourite-canadian-destinations-1.3659697
Thanks CBC. And Happy Canada Day!
The final stretch. We’ve finished up our fall road trip by being totally immersed in American roots music. The last leg of our six-week journey took us to Bristol, Virginia – the “birthplace of country music” and home to the brand new, Smithsonian affiliate, Birthplace of Country Music Museum. It’s a main stop on Virginia’s musical journey along The Crooked Road, a heritage music trail into the southwest part of the state.
In this part of the U.S., they like to joke that “country music was conceived in Galax, born in Bristol . . . and went to Nashville to die.”
In the early 20th century Bristol – a city that straddles the Tennessee/Virginia state line – was one of dozens of little cities connected to larger metropolitan areas by rail and telegraph lines. Surrounded by dozens of smaller communities and settlements in this part of the Appalachians, these mountains were home to thousands of dirt-poor sharecroppers, labourers and small merchants and their families whose lives revolved around churchgoing and childrearing.
In 1927 music producer Ralph Peer from New York’s Victor Talking Machine Company brought recording equipment to Bristol on the urging of Earnest “Pop” Stoneman who claimed that the hills around Bristol were literally alive with music. Using street posters, word of mouth and newspaper ads, Peer and Stoneman managed to attract dozens of hill people to Bristol where Peer recorded his archive of Americana. The resulting 1927 Bristol Sessions have entered the history books as the “Big Bang of Country Music”: the moment when technology, talent, luck and circumstance captured what would become the quintessentially American blend of gospel, folk and country music.
The museum, which opened in August 2014, is a magnificent monument to The Bristol Sessions and the times from which they emerged. We began with the short, high quality film that set the context of the sessions, introduce the key personalities and explain their motives and methods. A second film – aimed at the music geeks – explains the finger-picking styles captured in these seminal recordings. A third film traces the intertwining of The Bristol Sessions and the music that was rooted in the church. The final movie theatre experience looks at the enduring influence on contemporary country music, with concert footage splashed onto enormous, surround screens. We got a fill of Willie, Rita, Faith and a host of others.
The whole museum experience is immersive. You can’t walk these beautiful floors or enjoy this artfully curated exhibition without picking up a sense of the impact of these recordings on the world of music in following years.
A separate, special collection goes deep into the history and family connections of The Carter Family – Maybelle, A.P. and Sara – whose subsequent careers, together and separately, with children and spouses, elevated the Carters to the status of the “first family of country music.”
Give yourself several hours and read everything. It’s a world-class museum that manages to mix state-of-the-art displays with a down home feel. We loved every minute of our visit – and it was a fitting way to end our music-infused fall road trip.
Thanks Bristol! We’ll be back again.
From North Carolina we crossed into Virginia – we wanted to finish up the last part of The Crooked Road Music Trail. We’d travelled a large part of the Crooked Rod last fall but we wanted to add two stops: the Crater Family Fold and the newly-opened Birthplace of Country Music Museum. The Crooked Road is a fantastic heritage music trail that winds through southwest Virginia. It was one of our favourite experiences on our fall 2013 travels through the roots of American music.
So, off we went to Bristol, Virginia. A winding mountain road 45 minutes north of the city took us to The Carter Family Fold in Hiltons, VA; the wellspring, as it were, from which this first family’s music flowed. It was here that A.P. Carter collected songs and ran a dry goods store – now a small museum of the family itself – and where we visited the Carter Family Memorial Museum Center, a thoroughly modern 800-seat performance auditorium cut into the side of a hill which has hosted country music troubadours since opening in 1976.
The music of the Carter Family was “like water rippling in a sweet, clear spring off Clinch Mountain,” enthused Johnny Cash who married Maybelle Carter’s daughter June and performed for the last time on this stage in July 2003.
The Carter Family burst onto the national scene through a famous 1927 recording session called The Bristol Sessions (“The Big Bang of country music”). They were the first time the music of the mountains had been recorded for popular distribution. Through a combination of luck and good marketing, the Carter Family parlayed those Bristol recordings into a radio empire that nearly covered the continental United States from Mexico. “It was said that you could pick up the Carter Family on the barbed wire and straight-razor in this part of the country,” explained Dr. Joe Smiddy who plays guitar and banjo when not serving on the Carter Family Foundation.
So, on a Saturday night the cars and pickups stream into Hiltons, park in a nearby field, and visitors pack the seats at the Carter Family Fold. Every Saturday night without fail. It’s old-time music and bluegrass only on this stage, played on the authentic instruments – fiddle, guitars, mandolins, banjo and bass – and flatfooting on the hardwood down front. Kids, parents and grandparents share the dance floor. Everyone in this area seems to play something. Music – and the community experience of song and dance – is deeply integrated into the lives of these mountain people.
“It’s therapeutic,” Smiddy said, “this is physical therapy, it’s immunity, it’s a sense of joy. You can dance, you can sing along, you can learn some new songs. It’s real – and a whole lot of people come here to find what’s real.”
Before the dancing starts the master of ceremonies welcomes the crowd and does a short inventory of visitors, encouraging them to call out their home states and countries. For some, it’s a pilgrimage to the source of the music that has moved them all their lives.
“The thing about this music,” Smiddy mused, “is that you can play it well into your later years.” Long after the appeal of rock ’n’ roll has worn off, this music can still draw an audience. The walls of the auditorium are papered with pictures and framed posters of the Carter Family and their numerous musical descendants, related and unrelated. There are people in this audience, Smiddy told us, that have been coming every Saturday night for 35 years.
In this part of the country, the Carter Family looms large. And with good reason.
Oh, could most tourist destinations learn a thing or two from Asheville, North Carolina. This mid-size city in the Appalachian Mountains has lots going for it, not the least of which is the stunning scenery. On the urban end, the city’s energized and funky downtown core offers up a nice mix of used bookstores, speciality shops and independently-owned bars and restaurants. And most of it is dog friendly too. Rigby was welcomed into one store after another – especially the Three Dog Bakery where the sign on the door informed customers, Owners on Leash Welcome.
The locals like to joke about liberal-leaning Asheville being “the loophole in the Bible Belt.” There’s lots to see and do, including music, although we focused our time in the city on food, walking, soaking in the architecture and enjoying the work of local artisans. Our highlights? Read on . . .
Art Deco: Downtown is a mix of beautifully restored heritage buildings – with the nation’s largest collection of Art Deco architecture outside of Miami.
Southern eats: Even the funky-style eateries support the culture and heritage of the Southern mountains. We ate a great meal at Early Girl Eatery with its all-day breakfast and Southern standards on the menu (biscuits and gravy, fried green tomatoes, shrimp and grits and a North Carolina specialty, grilled pimento cheese sandwich).
Asheville Bee Charmer: Think all things bee-related and you get the idea. The new Bee Charmer has two locations, one in the heart of town and the other in the up-and-coming arts district of West Asheville. Owner Jillian Kelly is 100 per cent committed to connecting with ethical beekeepers around the world. The shop’s warmly- glowinghoney tasting bar is a blast and a way to try before you buy while learning a little about the intricacies of bees and honey production. If it’s about bees, Jillian knows it all.
Battery Park Book Exchange & Champagne Bar: We love most bookstores but we really, really loved Battery Park on Page Avenue (right in the centre of town). A visit is like slipping into a good friend’s sumptuously-decorated living room – couches and chairs, artwork on the walls, thick Persian rugs, table lamps – with the addition of thousands of (mainly) used books filling rows and rows of tall shelves. Music softly plays in the background (“we’re a conversational bar”) and well-behaved dogs are welcome. Owner Thomas Wright quips that he is “selling buggy whips” but we were instantly hooked. Oh yeah, there’s a well-appointed bar that serves champagne and wine. So comfortable, it was hard to leave.
Song of the Wood: A short drive outside Asheville is the stunning home and workshop of hammered dulcimer maker, Jerry Read Smith. Jerry is a skilled artisan and gracious host who loves to talk music, craft and woodworking to anyone with an appreciation for fine workmanship. He showed us his latest commission – number 950 in a long career than spans three decades. “Every single aspect of it makes a difference. A mahogany bridge will be different than a rosewood bridge,” he says. “The more you play it, the better it stays in tune.” For those who don’t have a clue what a hammered dulcimer is, take a look and listen at his excellent website (tip: it’s a percussion string instrument with about 100 strings in five octaves). He describes the unique sound best when he says: “Every note rings as long as it wants to. I think of it as music set free.”
Biltmore Estate: This magnificent piece of architecture – at 250 rooms it is America’s largest house – is a peek into how the .001 per cent live. The estate built by George Vanderbilt in 1895 stretches across 8,000 acres, getting in and out involves parking and shuttle rides and once you are in the estate home you will be agog at the antiques, furnishings, architecture and lifestyle. It’s an Asheville must-see.
The Carolina foothills have long been a centre of musical innovation and cross-cultural fusion. In this area of gently rolling hills, music and dance hold a place in the traditions of the community.
Enter the community jam. We were fortunate enough to visit several – and there are literally dozens of regular musical get-togethers. We’ve written about the excellent Earl Scruggs Center in Shelby, NC – if you are ever in the area it is worth a detour and several hours of your time. We gained a whole new appreciation for banjos and bluegrass and were eager to seek out spots we could hear more local players. We were not disappointed.
Fletcher
Because we really needed to see how the magic of bluegrass rolls out, we stopped in the town of Fletcher where, on a Monday night, we caught the open jam at the Feed & Seed: “A Family Friendly Live Music Venue that doubles as a church.” And it works.
This barely renovated, century-old feed and seed warehouse is now a non-denominational storefront church lovingly overseen by Pastor Phillip Trees. On Friday and Saturday nights bluegrass bands take to the stage (there’s a waiting list) and dancers practice their traditional Appalachian clogging (aka: flatfooting). Monday nights the church provides a home for the open community jam.
What we found was an evening of people immersed in the music of their lives and sharing their love of playing with anyone who walks through the door. This all-ages, all-faiths, event brings out the best in everyone.
We counted no fewer than 10 banjos, at least as many guitars, a doghouse (bass) and a sprinkling of violins (“fiddles,” y’all), resonator guitars and mandolins. There was even – cue the hairy eyeball – an electric bass on the bandstand. The average age was – oh, 65-70 – and there must have been 25-30 jammers all awaiting their turn and at least as many in the audience, cracking up, singing along and generally soaking up the vibe.
Pastor Trees has bands for his weekend shows lined up to play on his excellently appointed stage and sound system (two 20th-century Altec Lansing Voice of the Theatre speakers). The sound is terrific: warm and surrounding but not loud. Can’t make it to the Feed & Seed for a Monday night jam? You can stream the evening on your home computer. The cameras get turned on, the musicians fire the link to their Facebook friends and within a minute people are tuning in from all over the world.
As Pastor Trees says: “We’re free-giving back to the community.”
Drexel
In the Drexel Barber Shop, we crowded around a cluster of older men cradling a banjo, a mandolin, a resonator guitar, a guitar and a bass. Carroll Anthony’s dad – who carried his guitar into war with General Patton’s 3rd army – started this jam in 1964 and some combination of players and singers has been gathering here weekly since.
“He started strumming his guitar between haircuts,” Anthony explained. “Well, the chief of police played a mandolin. He started coming in and he’d pick a little bit. He’d get a call and have to take off. So he finally started leaving his mandolin at the shop. Joe came in and started playing banjo with them and it progressed from there. Today there are 30-40-50 people every Saturday morning.”
“These guys just love it. I couldn’t pay ’em to come here,” he explained. “They just love doing it.”
The sign in the barbershop says Pickin’ & Trimmin’ and that’s exactly what happens. Herbert Lambert – an 87-year old Second World War veteran – sat hunched over his mandolin.
“You’ll think he’s asleep, tobacco juice be drippin’ out of his mouth,” someone whispered, “but he’ll play here all day and go somewhere else to play all night.” Lambert plays circles around men 30 years younger. The back room is decked out with bluegrass memorabilia, posters of Bill Monroe, tributes to musicians who have visited, retired instruments adorn the walls and a circle of chairs for audience members close to the wood stove. It’s not fancy. It’s authentic.
There is no routine, no order of songs: one person starts up a melody and everyone else jumps in, takes their turn soloing, and comps along to the end. Visitors are welcome to sit in, youngsters are encouraged, singers are appreciated. Any skill level is welcome, as are players of any age. Most people play two or three instruments – some very well – and the whole spirit is about having fun and sharing the experience of making music.
Brevard
We loved the small town of Brevard (and not just because the incredibly efficient, family-owned – 100 years and counting – Eldridge Motors repair shop replaced our failed alternator with almost no notice). The new town library is great (it’s where we get lots of work done), there’s a world-class music school in town (the Brevard Music Center) and the downtown is neat and tidy with lots of interesting shops, including O.P. Taylor’s toy shop with one of the largest Lego inventories ever. The forests and waterfalls around Brevard have been used for movie shoots, including the first instalment of The Hunger Games.
We headed for the Silvermont bluegrass jam, started 32 years ago by local Harley Raines, sitting on his front porch. Things have grown and on Thursday nights the musicians and audience members crowd into a side room at the Silvermont, a heritage home that is now a community centre for seniors.
They jam here for the same reasons as everywhere else: for the pure enjoyment of playing and to keep the mountain music traditions alive. It’s mainly bluegrass and old-time, gospel mixed with a little bit of country.
Marion
The regular Friday night jam in the small village of Marion is named after a longtime local musician: Woody’s Original Mountain Music. Doors open at 6 pm and the music starts an hour later. Admission is free. Bands sign to be in the lineup and the list is posted up front. No one ever knows how many bands will show.
People were as interested in who we were and where we were from as we were about their fierce protection of traditional Appalachian mountain music.
The jam opens with a short prayer, led by Pastor Collins. Before and after, his wife mans the dessert table – thick calorie-laden slices of pie and cake fly off the shelf at 50 cents apiece. The goal is to keep the whole evening affordable.
The town is small but this event draws a regular crowd. Seats were quickly filled and new chairs are hustled to the sides. All were accommodated. The music and good vibes flow freely.
More info: Blue Ridge Music Trails of North Carolina