Hopping states (in search of blues sites)

Today we woke up in Clarksdale – the town in the Delta most associated with the blues.

Yesterday we hopped across three states – from Memphis, Tennessee south into Mississippi with a stop at the excellent Gateway to the Blues Museum in Tunica (thanks Webster for giving us the tour!). More stops at blues markers along the way – including the Abbay & Leatherman Plantation where Robert Johnson spent his childhood and barbecue at the Hollywood Cafe, immortalized in Marc Cohn’s song Walking in Memphis.
Then across the bridge over the Mississippi River into Helena, Arkansas, a small town that has seen hard times but in the 1930s and 1040s was a hotbed of blues music and culture. Robert Johnson lived and played there, as did Sonny Boy Williamson II and Howlin’ Wolf. In Helena (home of The King Biscuit Blues Festival – considered one of the world’s best) we toured the Delta Cultural Center, from which KFFA 1360 broadcasts a noontime blues show (“the longest running blues show in the world” – since 1941). Then, back over the Mississippi River and the short drive to Clarksdale, MS.

 

More Memphis Music

We spent the day touring and interviewing at three important Memphis music museums – all of them excellent – Sun Studio (where Sam Phillips first recorded Elvis Presley), STAX (home of the soul giants like Otis Redding, Sam and Dave, Isaac Hayes, The Staple Singers and Aretha Franklin) and a return visit to finish up some photos at the excellent Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum. Then we ducked across the street so Craig could fondle the guitars at the Gibson Factory (no purchases made).

Tomorrow … onwards to the Mississippi Delta and Clarksdale. Can hardly wait.

In the meantime, thanks Memphis. You’ve been great to us!

From the land of the blues …

We’re on a long research trip, gathering material for our upcoming travel book on the roots of the blues. 
Rather than detailed blog posts, we’re going to post photos and video bits to show you what we have to do to put a book together. Each photo will have a line or two to tell you what it’s about.

It all starts with checklists, phone calls, tons of emails and – eventually – a massive spreadsheet that details each day of interviews, museum stops, etc.

We leave …

Once out of the snow, Craig really, really, really needs to wash the salt and grime off the Roadtrek … 

In tiny Holly Springs, Mississippi we interviewed local blues collector, 90-year-old David Caldwell. His shop is stuffed with 91,000 records (no CDs here) and is so full that you cannot actually go inside. Mr. Caldwell remembers when B.B. King used to play at a Holly Springs venue for a whopping five cent entry fee. 

Memphis welcomed us with open arms – we toured Beale Street, the Center for Southern Folklore, the Lorraine Motel, the W.C. Handy home, the Blues Hall of Fame and the Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.

Rigby finally gets her own star … 

 

Checklists & The Big Pack

In a few days we will be on the road.

The Big Pack has begun and we have several checklists to follow: Pack the van, pack the dog, pack the people, pack the food, outfit the small kitchen and – no small task – pack the research materials, interview spreadsheets, maps and our portable office. It’s amazing that we get it all into the Roadtrek!

Our plan is to post snippets plus photos and video clips from the road so you can follow how we are researching and putting together our book project. We are on the final research push for a travel book on the roots of blues music. 

We thought it might be fun to post bits and pieces here – kind of a behind-the-scenes look at how the research for a music-themed book comes together.

Heading back to the Mississippi Delta (and escaping the Canadian snow!)

Big news at our end. The past year was a bit of a roller coaster for most people – for us it included buying a new(er) Roadtrek that we are in love with as well as working on book ideas.

Our first big road trip was the one that delved deep into the roots of American music. Our goal is to write a travel guidebook about exploring the roots of a unique style of American-born music, the blues (publication date: 2018).

So, we are back on the road for a month this winter, tidying up the bits and pieces of research for the book. Our travels will take us through Memphis, zig-zagging all across Mississippi, into Louisiana and ending at Muscle Shoals, Alabama.

MS Blues collage

While we’re gone, we’ll be blogging from the road – just for the fun of it – because there are some very cool stops we’ll be making, including . . .

  • The birthplace of Robert Johnson and the church where he sang in the choir.
  • Interviews with David Hood (one of the original Swampers in Muscle Shoals), Clarksdale author and blues enthusiast Roger Stolle, blues players including Jimmy “Duck” Holmes and King Edward, Rick Hall (founder of Fame Studios in Muscle Shoals) and Jerry Phillips (son of the late Sam Phillips, the man who discovered Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis).
  • If there’s a blues museum in Mississippi, we’re stopping in.
  • Touring the recently-opened 3614 Jackson Highway in Muscle Shoals Sound Studio. The last time we were there it was still boarded up and the revived studio space was just an idea.
  • So, we’re packing up the van, washing the dog, unfolding our maps (and plugging in the GPS) and soon we’ll be off. If you have any ideas for what sorts of things you’d like to learn about the blues please let us know!

    Rock & Roll Hall of Fame … what better spot to write our last post and pics.

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    If you’re a baby-boomer, you were transformed by rock and roll — even if you hated it. Rock and roll was to the culture of the 20th century roughly what the industrial revolution was to the 18th century. It swept everything before it, changing people and the societies they lived in while at the same time reflecting these changes back upon those people and societies. Rock and roll was — and in some respects still is — a global earthquake affecting culture and politics and economics and business and social and gender relations in every community that it touched, a tsunami of consciousness transformation that roiled individuals, families and communities and nations.

    Do I overstate this? Hardly. Rock and roll was about music — of course — but it was also about politics: it was the first music to — thanks to radio — reach a mass audience of people primed to question every form of authority they had grown up with. Rock and roll and radio and rebellion were made for each other. The rise of rock and roll coincides with the arrival of a new level of popular consciousness that was liberated from the stagnating conventions of the post-war era. 

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    It’s not overstating it to say that every significant event of the tumultuous 20th century was either lionized in song or surrounded by melody and harmony like a soundtrack that somehow made sense of it all while lifting it to a higher level of meaning.

    To really understand the force of this synergy, you have to visit the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland. If you hate rock and roll, you’ll have lots to focus your venom on — lots of reasons to wish things had gone differently and lots of people on whom to pin the blame. But if you love rock and roll you’ll have lots of opportunity to bask in what made it glorious. You’ll have the chance to stand inches from the white Fender Stratocaster on which Jimi Hendrix closed the Woodstock Music & Art Fair in 1969 with the Star Spangled Banner. That moment alone vaulted an already hugely talented wunderkind into a stratosphere of controversy because it at once celebrated — and held a mirror up to — the American soul for its role in Vietnam. At least, that’s how people of the time understood it.

    That’s only one exhibit of thousands. All told, the Hall of Fame numbers more than 100,000 items in its vast collection — only a fraction of which are on display at any time. If you don’t get off looking at films of the early Elvis driving the white kids into frenzy, perhaps you’ll dig reading the handwritten lyrics to Give Peace A Chance or lingering over the guitar on which Lennon performed his eponymous anti-war song. The Hall of Fame advises that you’ll need 2.5 hours to view its collection — but if you really want to immerse yourself be prepared to stay much longer.

    So musical instruments are not your thing? Stage wear, not so much? To really appreciate an exhibit on this scale, you have to comprehend that some titans of modern art have chosen rock and roll as the vehicle to make their mark on history. Some — say, Elton John — just wanted to write songs that everyone would sing along with. Others, like little Richard, just wanted to be the centre of attention — to be adored for their quirkiness. But Roger Waters, the prime mover behind Pink Floyd, could have been a force of nature in any art form he tackled — and his contribution to popular music will long endure. And on and on it goes.

    Pro Tip: Give yourself lots of time. Some parts of the six floors will not interest you. Some — like the massive ground floor displays — are indispensable for their context setting, their deep explanations for the origins of rock and roll and its formative names and songs. If you’re not interested in the music or the cultural significance, linger over the political upheaval that rock and roll provoked. If you were born between 1945 and 1960, you were affected by rock and roll. Maybe you got lucky and you’ll find much to celebrate about it. But you won’t be unaffected by the experience of visiting the Hall of Fame.

    www.visittheusa.ca

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    Elk run faster than humans (good to know)

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    Estes Park is the small Colorado gateway community that sits at the very eastern edge of Rocky Mountain National Park. It started as a ranching community but quickly switched its focus to tourism. RMNP is the third most-visited park in the National Park System – people come for the mountain scenery, the watchable wildlife and the hiking, biking and rock climbing. Denver and Boulder are a short drive away.

    Quirky fact: In the 1970s, Stephen King was stranded here in a snowstorm and stayed overnight at The Stanley Hotel, the town’s most historic property. He and his wife were the hotel’s only guests. It’s said that that night at The Stanley was the inspirational fodder for his novel, The Shining. They play the creepy movie on a continuous loop in the hotel.

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    Fall is a busy time at RMNP – people are drawn to the park to see the elk rut. And it’s not too hard to find as the elk are everywhere. On the hillsides, on the grasslands, on the roadsides, on the road. Dawn or dusk are best spotting times. Jo spent an evening on the excellent Rocky Mountain Conservancy’s Elk Expedition with naturalist guide Kevin Cook. Kevin knows everything there is to know about elk. Stumping him is … impossible.

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    We drove along the Old River Road and came across a lonely looking “bachelor bull” – one sad looking guy without a harem of females. Another mile along was a whole different story – a strutting alpha bull with a harem of about 15 females. Kevin explains: “A harem is a social unit that is managed by a single alpha bull called the harem master.” Bulls are very protective of their harem of cows and this one didn’t want anyone messing with his women.

    When you assemble several social units together, you get a herd. This only happens after the males have “done their duty” and all the females are impregnated (tough job, but someone has to get it done). At this point the male loses breeding interest and scales back his aggressive behaviour.

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    During the two-month long rut (the breeding season), the harem master “bugles” to keep other males away, marking his territory. It’s a wonderful sound! He expends a lot of energy and attention in keeping his harem of cows together. That’s why the rutting season can be a dicey time for human visitors – you have to be very careful not to get between a bull and his cows, or to make the bull feel threatened by getting too close. The park ranger tells us they sometimes see visitors trying to get close enough to take selfie-style photos!

    What you need to remember is that the bull elk is about 800 lbs and can run four times faster than a human. You do the math.

    www.colorado.com

    www.visittheusa.ca 

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    Very photogenic: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park